Looking for Lynx tour 3rd/9th February 2014

Looking for Lynx 3rd/9th February.

As John, Pernilla and Mikael had departed Madrid airport at about 10:30, they arrived at their base in Sierra de Andujar in good time to settle into their rooms before setting off on their first lynx watch. Although no-one was expecting excessive heat in early February, it was surprisingly cold with the temperature averaging 2'C,but it was a very promising first watch.     Red Deer and Fallow Deer were out in good numbers

and by the end of the watch, the bird list was already impressive with good views of Azure-winged Magpie, Cattle Egret, Sardinian Warbler, Spanish Imperial Eagle, Golden Eagle, Sparrowhawk, GriffonVulture and Red-legged Partridge.  As the light began to fade,John, Pernilla and Mikael were treated to excellent views of a family of Wild Boar, 3 adults with several distinctively striped young.  What a wonderful start to the tour!

They got good close views of the normally wary Azure-winged Magpie as they fed on the fruits outside our restaurant at lunch-time.

The weather became clearer and milder for the rest of the week with the exception of torrential rain on Saturday 8th February, and Pernilla and Mikael were treated to some wonderful wildlife moments.

Over the course of this week, the following birds were added to the impressive array of birds seen on the first evening; Iberian Green Woodpecker, Spotless Starling,, Magpie, Goshawk, Black Vulture, Common Kestrel, Black Redstart, Robin, Great Tit, Long-tailed Tit, Wren, Grey Heron, Mallard,Cormorant, Blackbird, Mistle Thrush, Songthrush, Iberian Chiff-chaff, Blue Rockthrush, White Wagtail, Grey Wagtail, Cetti's Warbler,Kingfisher, Chaffinch, Hawfinch, Goldfinch, Greenfinch, Rock Bunting,Crag  Martin, Peregrine Falcon,Tawny Owl,Wren, Crested Lark, Iberian Grey Shrike and Short-toed Treecreeper.

Everyone had a wonderful time watching two Golden Eagles talon grappling at La Lancha with accompanying views of 150+ Griffon and Black Vultures in the air.plus one Peregrine Falcon.

A herd of Moufflon were spotted close by, and the ram was sporting magnificent horns as he kept encircling his group of females, all looking in peak condition.  This was counteracted by a sole Spanish Ibex nibbling in relaxed fashion on the sheer cliff face.  As they entered the cave, Pernilla and Mikael were able to shine a torch on the Greater Mouse-eared Bats and the Daubentons bat above their heads.


They were lucky to see Eurasian Otter on several occasions;  on one particular occasion catching a fish and bringing it ashore to eat amongst the rocks. Pernilla was also delighted to catch up with the European Kingfishers which were to be seen flying up and down the river.

From their viewpoint they also caught sight of another successful fishing foray - human this time. A young Spaniard  landed a reasonably-sized fish and his delight showed no restraint.  Using his mobile phone, our successful angler posed with broad smile for several "selfies"with his new-found fishy prize featuring in each one; cheek to cheek,then wrapped around the neck, then fish hoisted aloft with pride, and he even enlisted Mikael's bemused help to ensure a really good photograph before returning his prize catch to the river.

A visit to the north of the park, where wolves are known to live but are rarely seen, also incorporated time spent at the Sanctuario de la Virgen de la Cabeza, which dominates the skyline in the National Park and demands our attention. This is where the Blue Rockthrush and Crested Lark were seen, along with several Griffon and BlackVultures, circling high over this atmospheric landmark.

It is obvious from what has already been reported here, that this week offered stunning views and some memorable wildlife moments, but for John, Pernilla and Mikael the real highlights were the fantastic views of 3 individual Iberian Lynx, which worryingly accounts for approximately 1% of the entire population of this highly endangered  mammal. Only a small number of rabbits were observed in the park, which is a concern as this is the staple diet of the Iberian Lynx and the rabbit population has been severely reduced due to disease.

The first lynx encounter was during the evening watch of Tuesday 4th February. After noticing very fresh lynx tracks and scat beside the bridge, all three were looking over the bridge hoping for otter sightings.  Pernilla caught a movement out of the corner of her eye and she calmly drew John and Mikael's attention to a large Iberian Lynx which was walking on the bridge about 15 metres away. Mesmerised for several seconds, all three watched hardly daring to breathe, and they took in the size and power of this magnificent feline.  It walked off the bridge into the rocks below, where it calmly climbed to the top of a rock and studied them from its lofty viewpoint.  Tremendous! And so close!

But the next encounter was even closer.

As John drove along the road at 13:30 the next day Wednesday 5th February, a young Belgian couple were standing by the roadside and excitedly explained that they had disturbed an Iberian Lynx on the road and it was now presumed to be in some bushes. After 2 or 3 minutes a female Iberian Lynx came out and crossed the road in front of Mikael and John at a distance of no more than 4 metres. It then raced across the road and set off in hot pursuit of an unsuspecting rabbit, narrowly missing catching it with its front right paw. We have the action shots here:

 Absolutely breathtaking!

During the evening of that same day John, Pernilla and Mikael were lucky enough to connect with another Iberian Lynx, this time a collared individual,along the river bank.  This animal showed very well for over an hour, lying and resting under a dead tree before calmly moving off to disappear in the vegetation.  On the way back to their accommodation, the trio were lucky  to find 2 Stripeless Tree Frogs on the wet road.

The time had come for Pernilla and Mikael to take their leave and good-byes were said to Roland and Mercedes.  It had been a lovely stay for them with plentiful grounds for relaxing walks, interesting company and of course the home-cooked cuisine which is second to none. John particularly enjoyed the Beetroot and Carrot soup and Pernilla left with a copy of the recipe for the Brie and Leek Pie, the best she had ever tasted.

A fantastic week, full of memorable moments and one which will be part of Pernilla and Mikael's reminiscences for a long time to come.

Watching for Wolves 15th/22nd January

Watching for Wolves 15th/22nd January.

It was a clear afternoon as Ethna met John at Madrid airport to set off on her Watching for Wolves tour.  She could enjoy close views of Red Kite on several occasions on the journey to the Sierra de la Culebra.  The distant mountains were silhouetted against a fiery sunset sky before the light faded and Ethna settled into her hotel room.

Sightings of Red Kite were numerous during this tour, but we still admired each individual as their impressive aerial displays gave us several opportunities to see the striking markings of this bird.  The first such view, even more striking with binoculars, was on the initial wolf watch on the morning of Thursday 16th January, where Red Kite and Common Buzzard could be observed hunting. Dartford Warbler, Wren and Crossbill could be heard as we watched many Red and several Roe Deer. These sights of Red and Roe Deer and Red Kite were repeated on the next morning's wolf watch, where heavy overnight rain and mist cleared in time for our scopes to be put to good use, watching stags and hinds a plenty. By Saturday morning, 17th January, the number of Red Deer sightings had depleted to a lone stag, but what a proud specimen! Bird-wise, we were lucky to see Grey Heron, Hen Harrier, Kestrel, Crossbill and the now almost inevitable Red Kite during our wolf watches.

An evening walk as dusk changed to darkness started in driving snow, but it soon cleared and we were excited at how close we were to several large Red Deer. We also caught Roe Deer in our torch as we wended our way back to the hotel, but even this was not the main event of the walk.  As John stopped to skim the surrounding bushes with the torch, he highlighted some eye-shine which demanded closer attention.  Focusing on a nearby copse, we were excited to make out first one, then two, sets of eyes which with binoculars could clearly be seen to belong to two Wolves;  one in particular was standing stock still and staring back at us. The tension between us and the figures behind the eyes could almost have been touched and it was an excited trio who settled down to Antonio's superb meal that evening.

Another evening walk was enjoyed the next night as we followed fresh wolf tracks and scat seen on our daytime forays,with large numbers of roosting Crows adding to the atmosphere in the increasing darkness. But, fun as it was, it could not match up with Saturday's wild, dark,wolf encounter.

The thrilling sight of  our target predator was topped the next morning however. John first spotted 2 Wolves, and having pointed out their  position, both John and Ethna were treated to one and three-quarter hours watching 6 Wolves greeting, play-fighting, sitting and standing on rocky outcrops, and moving about the valley in the crisp,clear morning light with Raven overhead showing interest. The wolves had obviously fed well that night as they showed very little interest in the many red deer in the valley; indeed the pack were all looking in tip-top condition as individuals took on dominant and submissive role-play; one rolling over on its back with a sibling standing over in dominant posture,...what an experience! A light coating of snow helped to highlight the animals in the vastness of this terrain and  as the morning sun rose in the sky, the 6 Wolves loped higher up the hillside to be lost to view as they lay down to sleep up for the rest of the day.

So, 2 Wolves in the black night on Saturday followed by 6 Wolves on the Sunday morning sunshine! This was proving to be an exceptional week for Ethna but it was not over yet. Even Sunday's experience was topped by an astounding encounter on Tuesday,which I suspect will feature amongst Ethna's most memorable few minutes of her already pretty eventful life. Whilst tracking by a wood, finding old bones and new tracks and scat, all three of us enjoyed close views of a Red Deer stag and several hinds as they left the wood and crossed the track in front of us. As John and I watched the progress of these deer, Ethna had her back to us, standing stock still by the wood-edge, binoculars to her eyes.

"It's a Wolf!"

Ethna was transfixed by the stare of a large
Wolf about 75 metres into the wood and during those minutes of eye contact,she experienced a gamut of emotions aroused by the direct stare. Human and lupine eyes were linked as each became part of the other's psyche...such is the power of this moment which only the few who have experienced it can truly understand.  The Wolf then,maintaining eye contact, moved into the surrounding trees and was lost to view, but had created an image which will be seared in Ethna's memory for the rest of her life. All this at 12:20 in the middle of the last full day of Ethna's Watching for Wolves tour, and a truly great climax.Our theory is that the wolf had been trailing the red deer which had come out of the wood in front of us and then had hung back in the wood aware of our presence.

Now to more mundane, but very enjoyable, times during this tour:-

The wet weather meant that the copious wolf, deer and wild boar tracks found on our walks were fresh and along with scat finds, were testimony to the wide-ranging activity of wolves and other wildlife in the Sierra de la Culebra.  We noted Chaffinch, White Stork, Iberian Grey Shrike, Mistle Thrush, Great Tit, Blue Tit, Black Redstart, Robin, Tree Sparrow and Rock Bunting whilst walking around our village base where the trees, denuded of foliage but adorned with fabulous lichen, made us feel we were walking onto a set for a Grimm's fairy tale.

The road to Flechas garnered good views of Spotless Starling, Common Buzzard, Iberian Grey Shrike, Meadow Pipit, Chaffinch,Great Tit, Red-legged Partridge and of course, Red Kite giving a wonderful demonstration in the clouds.  We saw the large Mastin dogs with their sheep and goats, and we enjoyed our walk in the sunshine,spotting Grey Wagtail and Iberian Chiff-chaff, whilst the villagers were more intent on visiting a travelling draper's shop. A Jay flew over as we entered Riomanzanas, where Margerita was ready as ever with her lively chatter,happy to show us her traditional way of rural, subsistence living. On the way to Puebla de Sanabria we had good numbers of Red Kites and Common Buzzards against a stunning backdrop of snow-capped mountains.

 As the weather became increasingly warm and sunny, Ethna explored the charming town of Puebla de Sanabria, with its magnificent old castle and interesting little shops where souvenirs could be purchased. At Ribedelago we noticed the bronze statue erected in memory of the 1959 disaster when 144 inhabitants lost their lives in the deluge of the burst dam. A solitary Golden Eagle briefly put in an appearance soaring high on a mountain ridge above Ribadelago. A good view of Iberian Green Woodpecker was obtained when one flew out of a tree in front of us near the lake.  We enjoyed a tasty lunch of sheep's cheese, olives, jamon and patatas bravas at a local bar before heading back to the Sierra de la Culebra.

Our day trip to the Douro gorge meant that we escaped a day of almost total rain in Culebra, with us only experiencing a shower during our lunch at Miranda do Douro.  At Moveros, Ethna and I set off in hot pursuit of a cart drawn by two oxen.

 We managed a photo as they trotted away, and I also include a photo of a model of this
mode of transport still used here today, from our visit to the centre at Villafafila.

 Slightly breathless from our oxen encounter, we unloaded into the charming pottery shop and workshop further into Moveros,where we were able to watch Carmen at work.

We saw several flocks of Spotless Starlings amongst the Pyrenean and holm oaks plus Great Tit, as we spent time in Aldeiea Nova, and we were heartened to see the green shoots re-emerging after last summer's fire devastation.  Sheep and goats were grazing on the crags with their ever-present shepherd and dog.  We were very interested in the ancient clapper bridge where we saw Cormorant and White Wagtail.

 A Common Buzzard was looking down from
the wires at the Fariza junction and as we walked along to the viewpoint, we marveled at the number of Griffon Vultures soaring so close around us.  Soon we discovered a possible reason for their close interest as we came upon a sheep with a lamb only minutes old. She was trying to lick it clean and the temptation of blood and afterbirth was proving irresistible to the Griffon Vultures who by now were in excess of 150.

Such sights were incredible, and we were pleased to note the presence of a shepherdess who was beginning to light a fire in the tiny field where the sheep drama had taken place.We knew then that ewe and lamb would be safe, and we were content to go on to lunch, spotting Collared Dove,House Sparrow,Blackbird, Crested Lark and a White Stork strutting in a field to all intents and purposes like a model on the catwalk.

As we left Miranda do Douro, at 17:15,we were looking at the typical Aliste donkey when we spotted a very good-looking Fox crossing the road and we were able to admire his dark pelt and full tail with clear,white tip.

Our trip to Villafafila began with a Dartford Warbler singing at our hotel and a Squirrel by the roadside at Ferreras de Arriba, where Ethna much admired the artistic metal work depicting the traditions of this area.

Three Red Deer hinds crossed the road near Tabara, just before the arrival of a snow plough gritting the roads enthusiastically and somewhat unnecessarily. We were able to watch the early-breeding Ravens perform their tumbling display at the Rio Esla bridge, plus enjoy good views of Red Kite, Griffon Vulture, Cormorant, Grey Heron and Little Grebe.  As we entered the arable farming land of Villafafila, we could see a Kestrel hovering over a roadside field, and several groups of larks were on the road. Near one of the ornate pagoda-style dovecotes we saw a Peregrine Falcon and the village of Villafafila gave us Black Redstart.

 Our first stop by the roadside soon got us onto 11 Great Bustards in a distant field, along with Lapwing, Shoveller, Mallard and Greylag Goose, and our time at the Observacione des Aves was mainly spent watching Red Kite mobbing a Great Bustard.  As we drove along the tracks,we enjoyed seeing several Marsh Harriers quartering over the water-logged fields populated by Skylark, Calandra and Crested Larks.

 A male Hen Harrier was also spotted hunting in this area rich with suitable prey and it was not long before we were excitedly watching c60 Great Bustards some beginning to display, some in flight and some chasing each other in the windy conditions. Careful driving by John and masterful directing by Ethna meant that we eventually got out of the deep,muddy tracks and,lifting an Iberian Hare en route,we set off for lunch at a bar full of local character, where it was agreed...it had been a "mighty day."

Antonio is to be complimented for his excellent,traditional cuisine this week as ever; highlights include merluza in Bechamel sauce, tasty soups of cauliflower and also carrot and leek, arroz a la Zamorana and mousse a limon. Thank you Antonio!

The journey back to Madrid is rarely uneventful and 22nd January was no exception. It seemed fitting that Red Kites were plentiful for this journey as Ethna had so appreciated their beauty,but the real surprise was the flight over the A6 of 2 Great Bustards, giving John and Ethna even more close views of these tremendous birds. And right up to the very end there were new discoveries....drawing close to Madrid John and Ethna had another new bird for the tour when a Hoopoe flew past the car as they pulled in for a lunch break.

And so ended an eventful and totally memorable Watching for Wolves tour. We hope the luck of the Irish which certainly smiled on Ethna during this tour, continues to work in her favour for all her exciting future plans.

Margaret.

Looking for Lynx November 2013

Looking for Lynx 4/8th November 2013.

John met up with Mike at Madrid airport late morning ready to set off for Sierra de Andujar in good weather.There were plenty of Red Kites and Spotless Starlings overhead as they stopped for a lunch of Iberian ham and local cheese. Nearing Andujar, John spotted an unfortunate victim of roadkill, the first Azure-winged Magpie of the tour, lying at the side of the carriageway.They arrived at the charming Andalusian farmhouse which just borders the park, and after greeting hosts Roland and Mercedes, they soon settled into this welcoming base.

After time spent unpacking, John and Mike then headed off to a spot deep in the park for their first try for Iberian Lynx.

Scanning the area, they could see large numbers of Red Deer and the valley was echoing with their primeval roars as the dominant stags sent out their challenges to any marauding younger individuals. The deer rut is much later here compared with that in the Sierra de la Culebra where the rut is more or less over by the last week in October.

Several Azure-winged Magpies,more lively than the first one encountered, were flying around and they could be heard as they foraged amongst the undergrowth.  Red-legged Partridge were calling from the rocks below as several Common Buzzards glided lazily across the valley and a Kestrel put in an appearance before flying off stiff-winged over the ridge. It was noted that no rabbits were visible from the viewpoint which was worrying as this is the main diet of our target species, the Iberian Lynx. Fluctuations in the rabbit population can have a huge effect on the breeding success of the lynx, and numbers can soon fall if the supply of rabbits is not available. After a couple of hours another group of watchers further along the viewpoint were lucky to have a sighting of a lynx going up through the valley.  This was hopeful! Retiring to the hotel, John and Mike enjoyed a tasty 3 course home cooked dinner and made acquaintance with some fellow guests from the Netherlands.

Day 2.

John and Mike set off after a lovely breakfast replete with home-made preserves and Roland's own home-baked  breads. After watching close views of Red and Fallow Deer, Mike was delighted to see his first Hoopoe.

Other birds spotted this morning included Subalpine Warbler, Stonechat, Black Redstart,Corn Bunting, Serin, Meadow Pipit and Griffon Vulture. Mike also got a fantastic view of Spanish Imperial Eagle in the telescope before it launched off over the ridge.

 After watching for lynx this morning without success John and Mike headed off for the day at La Lancha.Several Red-billed Choughs flew low over the dam wall calling as they performed aerobatic manoeuvres. Grey Wagtail, Cormorant and Great Crested Grebe were also spotted below the wall while a large group of Griffon and Black Vultures were seen circling on the thermals on the nearby ridges.

The second Spanish Imperial Eagle of this tour was spotted flying over the embalse giving a clear view of its diagnostic white leading edge to the wing.Crag Martins were sweeping over the dam wall and scaling the cliffs above where numerous Rock Doves could be seen. Optimism grew after talking to a couple from England who had seen lynx that morning as it crossed the mountain road in front of their car. A visit to the bat caves was exciting with Greater Mouse-eared Bat and Schreiber's Bat found hanging in the crevices along with Whiskered Bat. Several Iberian Water Frogs were to be found in the pools near the cave entrance.

This evening the watch was at a different site, by the Jandular river where John and Mike were rewarded with fantastic sights of Eurasian Otter fishing in front of them. Spanish Terrapins soaked up the warmth on the rocks at the edge of this river, whilst Cetti's Warbler and Soprano Pipistrelle Bats flew overhead.Two Kingfishers afforded great views plus several Red Deer, their splendid colours reflecting the fiery sunset of this beautiful atmospheric setting.

Still no lynx...but a night memorable in its peace and beauty.

Day 3.

The morning watch at La Lancha started in mist but it soon cleared to enable sights of Sardinian Warbler, Song Thrush, Blackbird, Griffon Vulture and Goshawk. A lot more rabbits were noticed this morning. Azure-winged Magpies and Iberian Green Woodpeckers could be heard calling as they flew around the copses with Magpies and Jays feeding on the valley floor.The lynx was still to prove elusive but a wonderful compensation was the incredible view of three Spanish Ibex only 30 metres away! John and Mike watched as they moved along the hillside with fleet-footed agility.Three Blackcaps could be seen in the holm oaks,along with Sardinian Warbler.  The road along to Los Escoriales runs through the ranch where for generations the owners have bred the traditional Spanish fighting bulls.

Some good news now is that with a new generation of owners the animals are only being bred to preserve this historic breed and are thankfully are no longer sent to the bull rings of Southern Spain. The time spent here also proved fruitful with good views of Golden Eagle, Black and Griffon Vultures, Crested Larks, Spotless Starlings, Corn Buntings and Great Spotted Woodpecker.  It was good to spend some time watching the Griffon Vultures squatting on the ground, opening up their huge wings to catch the sun. Near the hotel, a Ladder Snake was spotted also soaking up the warm rays and Iberian Wall Lizards were out in good numbers too.

The fantastic sunset at La Lancha during the

evening's watch helped assuage the slight sense of desperation as  there was still no lynx sighting although the views of Black Redstart, Chaffinch, Azure-winged Magpie, Jay, Magpie, Common Buzzard and Red Deer Stags in rut were greatly enjoyed.

Day 4.

This morning again started off a little misty, but it cleared to produce another nice day.John and Mike watched Robin, Blackcap, Sardinian Warbler, Red-legged Partridge, Kestrel, Common Buzzard, Griffon and Black Vulture, Great Tit,Azure-winged Magpie, Magpie,Jay and Chiff-chaff at La Lancha when the alarm was raised by the calling of the Magpies in a gully below.The thick vegetation hampered any clear view but the presence of lynx was very likely.

 After the morning's watch John and Mike returned to the dam site and located a single Spanish Ibex up on the crags above the river with several Griffon and Black Vultures perched on the surrounding ridges.  Red-billed Chough, Cormorant and Great Crested Grebe were also there on the embalse.  Further up to the north of the park,when visiting the  Sanctuario  Virgen de la Cabeza with its panoramic views of the natural park, a Golden Eagle could be spotted soaring over this impressive landmark.

Several Griffon Vultures plus Meadow Pipit, Mistle Thrush and Iberian Grey Shrike were also evident here.

The evening watch at La Lancha still did not produce any sight of the Iberian Lynx but everyone was cheered by the lovely home cooked meal in the company of other hopeful watchers.

Day 5.

The last try  for Iberian Lynx of this tour ...and it turned up trumps with good views of over 15 minutes at a time of our target ...the Iberian Lynx! 

John and Mike had been alerted by the alarm calling of Magpies in the gully below their watch-point.  Scanning with his binoculars, John focused on a movement and then slowly moving out of cover up the hillside was an Iberian Lynx!

This animal was the first we had seen in the Sierra de Andujar wearing a radio collar.  Mike was able to get good views through the telescope on this rare feline as it reached the track and then slowly and nonchalantly strolled along the track for over 100 metres. All the patience and perserverance of the last few days had come to a fitting climax with this rewarding view of one of the world's rarest and most endangered cats often referred to as the phantom of the Sierras.

After packing up and saying goodbye to Roland and Mercedes, thanking them for their excellent hospitality, John and Mike headed back to Madrid. On the way large numbers of Spotless Starlings, Cattle Egrets, Red Kites and Common Buzzards were all enjoyed, but there was no doubting the main topic of conversation...that wonderful climax to an eventful trip; that Iberian Lynx.


Margaret.

Watching for Wolves tour 21st/27th October 2013.

Watching for Wolves tour 21/27 October 2013.

Dusk was falling as John,Ian and Helen departed Madrid airport at 17:30 and after a refreshment stop at Villalpando, they made their way to arrive at the hotel by 21:30 to settle into their room complete with accompaniment of tawny owl calls before relaxing over a dinner of soup, cutlets with local tomatoes followed by apples from the orchard.The local tempranillo was also appreciated and we were all ready for sleep by 23:15.

The "mist and mizzle"weather conditions on the first wolf watch of the tour (22nd October) degenerated into full scale torrential rain and although it had cleared a little by mid-day, these were the conditions that prevailed throughout much of this week. John,Ian and Helen visited several good watch points on this first attempt in order to find a clear vistas,

and they did get good views of Red Kite,Dunnock, Dartford Warbler, Raven, Iberian Grey Shrike, Crossbill and a large Stag at Villardeciervos, but conditions just proved too wet for many of the watches to provide clear views. Despite difficult weather conditions however, Ian and Helen enjoyed some good,long views of family parties of Wild Boar...up to ten on one occasion...plus Red and Roe Deer on several occasions.

 We were also excited to find recent wolf tracks in the mud behind our place of watch at the pista, leading up the bankside to an obvious wolf latrine site on the way up to Pena Mira.The wolves  were there, just thick mist and torrential rain to overcome in order to see them! And that moment came,on the morning of Ian's 50th birthday, 25th October.  John got Ian onto his first Wolf to make this a birthday he would never forget!

At 09:20 this large predator emerged from the thick mist which swirled atmospherically along the valley at la pista, and indeed, as Ian watched, it turned its head towards Ian, clearly displaying the distinct cheek markings of the Iberian Wolf. After pausing to consummate that moment when two species meet and make eye contact,the wolf straightened up and slowly moved off, allowing the mist to swallow up any further hope of a longer view this morning.

The first walk of the week gave Ian and Helen two new birds, Cirl Bunting and Rock Bunting, plus we enjoyed watching a male Black cap feeding on the elderberries in the garden of our hotel. Within the confines of our base at San Pedro we also saw Black Redstart, Serin, Robin, Tree Sparrow and Jay whilst at Cional we had some impressive views of Longtailed Tit, Blue Tit,Crested Tit, Great Tit, Nuthatch, Rock Bunting, Firecrest, Blackcap, Goldfinch, Red Kite, Common Buzzard, and Great Crested Grebe plus wolf scat and wild boar tracks.

Wednesday 23rd October dawned with strong rain as per usual this week,but it looked a little clearer over towards our destination of the Douro Gorge in Portugal.  Although we enjoyed watching Stonechat en route, we were surprised at the lack of Griffon Vultures at Fariza but stupendous views of Golden Eagle flying and diving around our viewpoint more than compensated.  This was Helen's first Golden Eagle-and what views they were! Over a tasty dinner of carrot soup, pork in orange and lemon mousse, we appreciated Ian's excellent photographs of this magnificent raptor in flight.

On Thursday 24th October the morning rain resembled stair-rods and the wolf watch was curtailed.  This meant however, that more time was now available to devote to the reserve of Villafafila, where thankfully, it was clearer and drier.  Not just 2, or 5, or 10, but circa 70 Great Bustards were there for Ian and Helen to enjoy, both at rest and in magnificent flock flight. Lovely! We also saw Marsh Harrier and Green Sandpiper.

An elegant Great White Egret was watched at the atmospheric site of the Rio Esla bridge and we spent some time watching the reactions of a couple of  pilgrims who seemed to be having their patience tried to the utmost by another of their ilk who seemed to have latched onto them and who was insisting on singing enthusiastically and constantly as they tried to wend their way along this particular route of the Camino de Santiago. We returned to an evening watch where the highlight was 10 Wild Boar. Antonio had prepared another lovely dinner of local specialities;  tonight it was eggs and morcilla followed by merluza and stewed apple.

The journey back to Madrid airport was one of the few trips when no windscreen wipers were needed as the weather was much better today (27th October) and indeed has been excellent ever since! Several Red Kites and Common Buzzards were in flight in these drier conditions; this route is never boring! Certainly Ian and Helen had seen a lot despite the weather,with many of the sights being new species for them both. .And Ian had his birthday Wolf!

Margaret.